The pursuit of beauty in ‘the age of powder and paint"

The British eighteenth century was an age of elegance. A vital importance was put on appearances and the consumer boom of the time assumed epic proportions. Towards the end of the century complexions became increasingly more colourful and hairstyles more extravagant. As Neville Williams puts it, “[it] was par excellence the age of powder and paint” (1957:56) and women spared no effort or cost regarding their appearance since presenting oneself with the latest trends was paramount to a woman’s reputation of being fashionable. High-quality cosmetics, wigs and poufs defined rank and power since they were only affordable to the elites and women would sacrifice comfort and safety for the sake of their fashion. This article aims to present an overview of the use of cosmetics by eighteenth-century elite women and how it constitutes a sign of the increased economic prosperity which prompted the consumers’ boom.info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersio

(Board)ing Schools: Rudyard Kipling’s young heroes

Rudyard Kipling’s young male characters, namely Stalky (Stalky & Co. ) and Harvey Cheyne Junior (Captains Courageous), whom he portrays with noticeable admiration, exhibit, on the one hand, circumspection, stoicism, leadership, and stalkiness, on the other hand, the absence of scruples in manipulating those acting in loco parentis to achieve their desired ends. This article aims to examine how these characters can shed light on one another, allowing for a better comprehension of them both. Furthermore, it will explore how the religious archetype of the trinity permeates Stalky & Co.’s composition of characters, and how muscular Christianity shapes Captains Courageous. Stalky and Harvey thrive in a masculine world, access to which requires leaving women behind, substituting them with brotherhoods or identification with the father. The perfect man, Kipling postulates, is the resourceful and courageous rule-bending Christian who is able to keep women and natives in a state of obedience.info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersio

Accounting practices for financial instruments. How far are Portuguese companies from IAS?

The purpose of this study is to analyse the current accounting practices for financial instruments by Portuguese companies and compare them to the measurement, recognition and disclosure requirements stipulated in IAS 32 and 39. In order to attain our objective, we drew up a list of 120 categories of inquiry and 370 possible responses that we were interested in analysing. We applied content analysis technique to 2001 listed companies’ annual reports. Our results suggest that the accounting practices for financial instruments by companies listed on the Portuguese stock exchange are very far from what IAS 32 and 39 require. This is especially observed in the measurement and recognition criteria applied to the categories of financial instruments for which the adoption of fair value is required (that is, held-for-trading and available-for-sale financial assets). In what derivative instruments are concerned, we found that the fair value measurement criterion is being adopted by a large number of derivative users. However, with respect to hedging transactions, the gap between accounting practices and the relevant accounting Standards is quite wide. A big improvement in reporting practices regarding this type of instruments will be needed. These findings throw light on the challenges of adopting IAS, particularly with respect to fair value measurement, now that 2005 is near.Financial instruments accounting, Fair Value, International Accounting, IAS, Portugal

Connexionisme et attribution du genre en français : modèle d’acquisition ou de classification?

Les modèles connexionistes tendent à démontrer que les règles postulées par les théories ayant une approche symbolique peuvent se résumer à une capacité organisationnelle du cerveau, où l’ordre n’est que le résultat émergent des fonctions architecturales du système. Sokolik et Smith 1992 ont développé un système connexioniste pour rendre compte de l’assignation du genre en français. Cependant, plusieurs choix méthodologiques font en sorte que les résultats qu’ils présentent peuvent être mis en doute. En utilisant un réseau neuronal à trois couches, nous vérifions si le modèle connexioniste peut véritablement rendre compte de l’assignation du genre sans utilisation de règles.Connectionist models tend to demonstrate that rules postulated by symbolically based theories can be accounted for by the brain's ability to organise information, where order is simply the emergent result of the system's architectural functions. Sokolik and Smith 1992 have developed a connectionist model to explain gender assignment in French. However, some of their methodological choices cast doubt on their results. Using a three layer neural network, we investigate whether a connectionist model can truly explain gender assignment without the use of rules

Design and implementation of sensor systems for control of a closed-loop life support system

The sensing and controlling needs for a Closed-Loop Life Support System (CLLSS) were investigated. The sensing needs were identified in five particular areas and the requirements were defined for workable sensors. The specific areas of interest were atmosphere and temperature, nutrient delivery, plant health, plant propagation and support, and solids processing. The investigation of atmosphere and temperature control focused on the temperature distribution within the growth chamber as well as the possibility for sensing other parameters such as gas concentration, pressure, and humidity. The sensing needs were studied for monitoring the solution level in a porous membrane material along with the requirements for measuring the mass flow rate in the delivery system. The causes and symptoms of plant disease were examined and the various techniques for sensing these health indicators were explored. The study of sensing needs for plant propagation and support focused on monitoring seed viability and measuring seed moisture content as well as defining the requirements for drying and storing the seeds. The areas of harvesting, food processing, and resource recycling, were covered with a main focus on the sensing possibilities for regulating the recycling process

Alexander and the eternal body of the king

A partir da tese dos dois corpos do rei de Ernst H. Kantorowicz, que separa o corpo político, simbólico e imortal do monarca do seu corpo natural e mortal, os autores analisam a função icónica das representações de Alexandre da Macedónia nas artes visuais entre os séculos XVI e XVIII. Demonstram como no período considerado, a figura de Alexandre personificou as qualidades atribuídas pela literatura política, desde o final da Idade Média, ao rei ideal. A identificação de Alexandre com a figura do rei ideal levou a que os episódios da sua vida, tal como foram narrados por Plutarco nas Vidas Paralelas e por outros autores da Antiguidade, tenham sido temas recorrentes na pintura e na tapeçaria, representados com uma clara intenção propagandística de afirmação do poder rea

Hexane isomers sorption on the rigid framework MOF MIL-100(Cr)

In this work we studied the hexane isomers sorption on the MIL-100(Cr) [1]. The first part of the study was related to the pattern MIL-100(Cr) solid, the second dealt with the MIL-100(Cr) grafted with EtAp (Ethylamine pure) and the third with MIL-100(Cr)MEDA (Methyl ethylene diamine). The synthesis and characterization of MIL-100 (Cr), MIL-100(Cr)EtAp and MIL-100(Cr)MEDA was performed at Institut Lavoisier de Versailles. The separation and adsorption capacity of each MOF were evaluated through breakthrough experiments in a chromatographic system at LSRE using an equimolar mixture of four hexane isomers: n-hexane (nHEX) (RON 25), 3-methylpentane (3MP) (RON 75), 2,3-dimethylbutane (23DMB) (RON 103) and 2,2-dimethylbutane (22DMB) (RON 94) with the objective to the develop an adsorptive process to separate hexane isomers (kinetic diameter very similar) in order to improve the quality of gasoline measured by the octane number (RON)

Separation of hexane isomers in metal-organic frameworks

In this work we study the effect of the functionalization of UiO-66(Zr) architecture with three different organic ligands: 2-aminoterephthalic acid (NH2-H2BDC), 2-nitroterephthalic acid (NO2-H2BDC) and 2-bromoterephthalic acid (Br-H2BDC) on the separation of hexane isomers by adsorption viewing the upgrading of TIP processes. The functionalized MOFs were synthesized and fully characterized applying established techniques: X-ray powder diffraction (XRPD), Infra-Red spectroscopy (IR), Thermo Gravimetric analysis (TGA) and nitrogen adsorption measurement. The potential of separation of the hexane isomers in the synthesized MOFs has been assessed by ISBN: 988-84-695-3536-3 T12-7 performing several screening studies in a breakthrough apparatus exploiting the effect of temperature and partial pressure, demonstrating that functionalization changes sorption behavior improving the separation between 22DMB and the other isomers. Figure 2 shows an experimental breakthrough curve performed in a bed packed with amino functionalized UiO-66 (UiO-66_NH2) where it can be seen that this material is able to separate high RON di-branched isomers (22DMB) from the low RON parents mono (3MP) and linear (nHEX) ones

GDF-9 and BMP-15 direct the follicle symphony

Understanding the physiology underlying the complex dialog between the oocyte and it's surrounding somatic cells within the ovarian follicle has been crucial in defining optimal procedures for the development of clinical approaches in ART for women suffering from infertility and ovarian dysfunction. Recent studies have implicated oocyte-secreted factors like growth differentiation factor 9 (GDF-9) and bone morphogenetic protein 15 (BMP-15), members of the transforming growth factor-beta (TGFβ) superfamily, as potent regulators of folliculogenesis and ovulation. These two factors act as biologically active heterodimers or as homodimers in synergistic cooperation. Through autocrine and paracrine mechanisms, the GDF-9 and BMP-15 system have been shown to regulate growth, differentiation, and function of granulosa and thecal cells during follicular development playing a vital role in oocyte development, ovulation, fertilization, and embryonic competence. The present mini-review provides an overview of recent findings relating GDF-9 and BMP-15 as fundamental factors implicated in the regulation of ovarian function and discusses they're potential role as markers of oocyte quality in women.info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersio